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A peak amid the valley

IAN CRUICKSHANK
Friday, April 27, 2007

Prince's playground

Prince Edward Island is unabashedly old-school. There's only one building in the whole province that's more than four storeys high, and the afternoon rush hour in Charlottetown is an oxymoron. The island's most famous export is a fictional, freckle-faced orphan. One of its top imports, however, is golfers.

There are now 32 courses sprinkled across the island. The best, by far, is the Links at Crowbush Cove, outside the village of Morell on the province's ochre-coloured Norh Shore. It was voted best new course in Canada in 1994 by Golf Digest, and it's now considered one of the top public courses in North America. Originally planned as a nine-hole layout, the course doubled in size in response to the breadth of the landscape, becoming a full-blooded headliner. Course architect Tom McBroom threaded Crowbush along the base of the big-shouldered dunes that edge the Gulf of St. Lawrence, hopscotching across water, marshes and pine groves. There's no artifice here--just smart holes that require not only Herculean drives to clear the tidal ponds when the wind gets wild, but also feathery wedge shots to grab greens tilted toward the sea.

Six years ago, the course expanded again with the addition of the Rodd Crowbush Golf & Beach Resort, Atlantic Canada's only five-star resort. Low-slung and handsome, its main lodge and adjacent cottages are painted in the pastel colours of the sunrise. The resort is equipped with all of the 21st-century necessities, from free high-speed wireless access to Jacuzzi tubs, and, most important, the front door is just a two-minute hike to the beach and a 30-second walk to the clubhouse--enough time for golfers to find their own PEI rhythm. Green fees: $75-$90

Stay at one of the two-bedroom cottages overlooking the fifth fairway at Rodd Crowbush Cove Resort. It comes complete with a full kitchen, including dishwasher, two bathrooms, Jacuzzi tub, fireplace, barbecue and screened-in porch

$312 a night; http://www.roddvacations.com

Eat at Lobster on the Wharf in downtown Charlottetown. Ask for one of the outdoor tables that jut out into the harbour, and then wrestle with a 1.5-pound giant lobster that's surrounded by heaps of coleslaw.

http://www.lobsteronthewharf.com